Caring for your new bunny
Housing
The recommended cage size for a small breed weighing around the 1kg mark: 100cm long x 35cm wide x 45cm high. Although this is the recommended size, a hutch can never be too large as rabbits love to be able to move around and stretch out. Hutches can come in single and two story levels and can be kept inside or outside. Although if the hutch is being kept outside, it should have an overhanging roof to give the rabbit protection. The hutch should be placed on bricks (or something similar and sturdy) to prevent moisture rising into the wood and rotting it. The hutch should be secured to ensure they are not overturned in bad weather. The floors should be watertight, and unless a part wire floor is provided (with a metal tray), it will need to be supplied with absorbent bedding, usually pine shavings, hay or straw. It is best to have outdoor hutches covered in gauze mesh over the wire to keep out mosquitoes which can carry myxomatosis. Hutches must be draught and damp proof. There needs to be plenty of fresh air, light and lot’s of room to play. They should not have any sharp edges which may be dangerous to the rabbit. Rabbit’s can also be easily toilet trained but avoid using clay-type litters as these can cause digestion problems if nibbled. The biggest problem caused by rabbits roaming free inside the house is biting through electrical cords so homes should be bunny-proofed before release.
Housing
The recommended cage size for a small breed weighing around the 1kg mark: 100cm long x 35cm wide x 45cm high. Although this is the recommended size, a hutch can never be too large as rabbits love to be able to move around and stretch out. Hutches can come in single and two story levels and can be kept inside or outside. Although if the hutch is being kept outside, it should have an overhanging roof to give the rabbit protection. The hutch should be placed on bricks (or something similar and sturdy) to prevent moisture rising into the wood and rotting it. The hutch should be secured to ensure they are not overturned in bad weather. The floors should be watertight, and unless a part wire floor is provided (with a metal tray), it will need to be supplied with absorbent bedding, usually pine shavings, hay or straw. It is best to have outdoor hutches covered in gauze mesh over the wire to keep out mosquitoes which can carry myxomatosis. Hutches must be draught and damp proof. There needs to be plenty of fresh air, light and lot’s of room to play. They should not have any sharp edges which may be dangerous to the rabbit. Rabbit’s can also be easily toilet trained but avoid using clay-type litters as these can cause digestion problems if nibbled. The biggest problem caused by rabbits roaming free inside the house is biting through electrical cords so homes should be bunny-proofed before release.
Hutch hygiene
Hutches should be cleaned out on a regular basis. This is especially important in warmer weather in order to prevent flies being attracted to the hutch, as this may result in an infestation of maggots. In the winter months, bedding can become damp and moldy from extreme weather.
Every day
Remove any soiled or damp bedding
Once a week
RABBITS CAN DIE FROM HEAT STRESS
In the cold weather make sure outdoor hutches are fully protected by wind and rain. Apply lots of soft bedding for them to cuddle into and clean it every day to make sure it does not become wet. Another benefit of have two rabbit’s is that they will keep each other warm. Once again in the extremely cold weather your rabbit will much prefer to be inside!
Grooming
Brushing
Rabbit’s can shed four times a year. They should be brushed at least once a fortnight and during molt more often as rabbits will ingest loose hair which can cause intestinal problems and hair balls. Two rabbits kept together will need to be brushed more often as they will rub up against each other and coarse knots. A wire slicker brush is very effective with the cashmere’s coat or a soft brush for a mini lop, both can be used to remove loose fur from your rabbit, be careful you don’t hurt the rabbit’s skin. Matted areas on your rabbit can be removed with a wire comb, be as gentle as possible. Severe matting can be removed with blunt scissors, but be careful not to cut the skin. If it gets to bad and you think you mite harm the rabbit then take it to a professional groomer.
Bathing
A new product called ‘Bunny Dri Bath’ is now available to make you bunny nice and clean and smell lovely. This powder is available from most pet shops and we also sell it. Do not ever fully emerge your rabbit in water. Bathing a rabbit in water will cause great stress and could send it into shock. They are susceptible to chills and can quickly become hypothermic. They take a long time to get wet and a very long time to dry. For dirty feet and bottom’s apply a small amount of rabbit shampoo and then rinse well.
If your rabbit is wet to the skin for any reason, be sure to thoroughly blow dry the bunny until even the undercoat is dry and fluffy. Rabbit skin is very delicate, and rabbits are sensitive to heat, always set the blow dryer on low and monitor the temperature of the air on the bunny's skin by placing your hand in its path.
Teeth
Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and must be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly. Making sure they have things to chew usually keeps this under control. If it does not they will need to have their teeth kept trimmed with guillotine-type clippers. If overly long teeth are left untreated, the rabbit will not be able to eat and could starve to death. Your veterinarian can show you how to clip rabbit’s teeth or they can clip them for you.
Nails
Rabbit’s nails can grow to be very long and sharp and should be cut about once a fortnight depending on their length. This can be done with the guillotine type clippers or with human toe nail clippers. To avoid bleeding, cut only the white portions of the nail as shown above. This can be difficult on rabbits with dark nails. If having trouble on rabbits with dark nails, you can use a torch behind the nail to illuminate the quick. Cutting into the quick will cause the nail to bleed. Styptic powder or baking soda can be applied to the nail to stop the bleeding.
One of the easiest ways to clip our rabbit's nails is to lay the rabbit on its back in your lap. Place the rabbit's head near your knees and the rabbit's back feet near your stomach. For rabbits that like to move around a lot a second person may be needed the hold the rabbit near the base of the ear.
Diet
The diet of your rabbit should consist of quality hay, pellets and fresh veggies. The most common recommended amount of pellet’s to feed you adult bunny is ½ to ¾ of a cup daily. Bunnies up to 4 months old should be fed as much as they will eat, however once they are adults make sure they don't get to fat! If you purchase your pellets in bulk make sure they are in a air tight container to prevent them going mouldy which could cause illness in your rabbit. Hay should be a regular part of your rabbit’s diet. They should be given as much as they can eat everyday. Hay helps reduce hairballs and blockages in the intestines which can kill your rabbit. Types of hay include grass, oaten, rye & clover and pure clover. We do not feed lucerne as it's to rich for little bunnies to cope with.
Rabbits have a sweet tooth. They can be fed several types of treats, but should be limited to small portions. Never feed treats that have been treated with chemical fertilizer or pesticides. Rabbits under 3 months should not be excessive amounts of green. Our adult rabbits are fed a one cup of fresh veggies a day.
If you have purchased a new baby bunny from us it will have been fed pellets and hay. You can start introducing greens slowly within a week or so. Offer small amounts every second day, making sure the babies tummy is coping with the richer food. Within a couple of months your bunny should be eating veggies as a regular part of his / her diet. Below is a list of items you can and cannot feed your rabbit. Our rabbits favorites are silver beet, celery, parsley, cauliflower, roses and apple tree branchs.
Good:
If you are ever unsure DO NOT FEED IT TO YOUR BUNNY! Ask your vet or have a look on google
Bunny Tales ©
Hutches should be cleaned out on a regular basis. This is especially important in warmer weather in order to prevent flies being attracted to the hutch, as this may result in an infestation of maggots. In the winter months, bedding can become damp and moldy from extreme weather.
Every day
Remove any soiled or damp bedding
Once a week
- Remove all bedding. Thoroughly sweep out all the old bedding.
- Rinse with warm water and mild detergent and wait until dry.
- Spray inside of hutch with a rabbit safe disinfectant/deodorant and wait until dry.
- Replace with clean bedding.
RABBITS CAN DIE FROM HEAT STRESS
In the cold weather make sure outdoor hutches are fully protected by wind and rain. Apply lots of soft bedding for them to cuddle into and clean it every day to make sure it does not become wet. Another benefit of have two rabbit’s is that they will keep each other warm. Once again in the extremely cold weather your rabbit will much prefer to be inside!
Grooming
Brushing
Rabbit’s can shed four times a year. They should be brushed at least once a fortnight and during molt more often as rabbits will ingest loose hair which can cause intestinal problems and hair balls. Two rabbits kept together will need to be brushed more often as they will rub up against each other and coarse knots. A wire slicker brush is very effective with the cashmere’s coat or a soft brush for a mini lop, both can be used to remove loose fur from your rabbit, be careful you don’t hurt the rabbit’s skin. Matted areas on your rabbit can be removed with a wire comb, be as gentle as possible. Severe matting can be removed with blunt scissors, but be careful not to cut the skin. If it gets to bad and you think you mite harm the rabbit then take it to a professional groomer.
Bathing
A new product called ‘Bunny Dri Bath’ is now available to make you bunny nice and clean and smell lovely. This powder is available from most pet shops and we also sell it. Do not ever fully emerge your rabbit in water. Bathing a rabbit in water will cause great stress and could send it into shock. They are susceptible to chills and can quickly become hypothermic. They take a long time to get wet and a very long time to dry. For dirty feet and bottom’s apply a small amount of rabbit shampoo and then rinse well.
If your rabbit is wet to the skin for any reason, be sure to thoroughly blow dry the bunny until even the undercoat is dry and fluffy. Rabbit skin is very delicate, and rabbits are sensitive to heat, always set the blow dryer on low and monitor the temperature of the air on the bunny's skin by placing your hand in its path.
Teeth
Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and must be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly. Making sure they have things to chew usually keeps this under control. If it does not they will need to have their teeth kept trimmed with guillotine-type clippers. If overly long teeth are left untreated, the rabbit will not be able to eat and could starve to death. Your veterinarian can show you how to clip rabbit’s teeth or they can clip them for you.
Nails
Rabbit’s nails can grow to be very long and sharp and should be cut about once a fortnight depending on their length. This can be done with the guillotine type clippers or with human toe nail clippers. To avoid bleeding, cut only the white portions of the nail as shown above. This can be difficult on rabbits with dark nails. If having trouble on rabbits with dark nails, you can use a torch behind the nail to illuminate the quick. Cutting into the quick will cause the nail to bleed. Styptic powder or baking soda can be applied to the nail to stop the bleeding.
One of the easiest ways to clip our rabbit's nails is to lay the rabbit on its back in your lap. Place the rabbit's head near your knees and the rabbit's back feet near your stomach. For rabbits that like to move around a lot a second person may be needed the hold the rabbit near the base of the ear.
Diet
The diet of your rabbit should consist of quality hay, pellets and fresh veggies. The most common recommended amount of pellet’s to feed you adult bunny is ½ to ¾ of a cup daily. Bunnies up to 4 months old should be fed as much as they will eat, however once they are adults make sure they don't get to fat! If you purchase your pellets in bulk make sure they are in a air tight container to prevent them going mouldy which could cause illness in your rabbit. Hay should be a regular part of your rabbit’s diet. They should be given as much as they can eat everyday. Hay helps reduce hairballs and blockages in the intestines which can kill your rabbit. Types of hay include grass, oaten, rye & clover and pure clover. We do not feed lucerne as it's to rich for little bunnies to cope with.
Rabbits have a sweet tooth. They can be fed several types of treats, but should be limited to small portions. Never feed treats that have been treated with chemical fertilizer or pesticides. Rabbits under 3 months should not be excessive amounts of green. Our adult rabbits are fed a one cup of fresh veggies a day.
If you have purchased a new baby bunny from us it will have been fed pellets and hay. You can start introducing greens slowly within a week or so. Offer small amounts every second day, making sure the babies tummy is coping with the richer food. Within a couple of months your bunny should be eating veggies as a regular part of his / her diet. Below is a list of items you can and cannot feed your rabbit. Our rabbits favorites are silver beet, celery, parsley, cauliflower, roses and apple tree branchs.
Good:
- Silver beet
- Cauliflower, leaves and heads
- Broccoli, leaves and heads
- Parsley, excellent for their health
- Apples, without the pips
- Carrots, once older
- Parsnip
- Radish, leaves as well ( grow your own from seeds )
- Bock Choy and other Chinese leafy vegetable
- Beans
- Corn
- Celery
- Rose, both flower and stems, the prickles are fine! ( as long as they have not been sprayed )
- Willow Tree branch and leaves
- Avacado
- Lettuce
- Almonds
- Acorns
- Rhubarb
- Cabbage
- All pips and seeds of fruit
- Plants including azalea, asparagus fern, daisy, rhododendron, iris, ivy
- All bulbs
- Tomato leaves
- Eucalyptus
- Oak tree
If you are ever unsure DO NOT FEED IT TO YOUR BUNNY! Ask your vet or have a look on google
Bunny Tales ©